By Dr. Muhammad Jameel Yushau
By 2 pm yesterday, the vast majority of pilgrims in our camp had adorned themselves in vibrant Eid attire, creating a picturesque scene. Amidst this festive atmosphere, a sense of anticipation filled the air as people engaged in heartfelt phone calls, reaching out to their loved ones with warm wishes. Some of the pilgrims decided to go to to Makkah after completing the symbolic stoning of the Jamarat. Their destination: the Kaaba, where they would engage in Tawaf Al Ifadah, the circumambulation of the holy structure, and sa’yi, the symbolic walk between mount Safa and mount Marwa. These acts hold profound significance for each pilgrim and key pillars of Hajj, depending on the chosen approach by the pilgrim —Tamattu’u, Qiran, or Ifrad—as we previously discussed in this series.
In contrast, our group opted to first participate in the stoning ritual at the Jamarat, then return to Minna for the remainder of the day. It is worth noting that the act of casting pebbles at the Jamarat, seven times on the first day and seven times for each Jamarat on the subsequent days, including the 13th of Dhul Hijja for those staying until then, is often misconstrued or misunderstood as the mere stoning of the devil. In truth, these acts hold symbolic significance, but what truly matters is the unwavering devotion and remembrance of God that resides within each pilgrim’s heart.
For those seeking a more comprehensive understanding of the tradition of the Jamarat, there are valuable insights to be found in classic literary works such as Ibn Quadamah’s Al Mughni and Abu Hamid Alghazali’s Ihya Ulumuddin. These esteemed scholars have clarified the misconceptions surrounding the Jamarat and have provided valuable guidance on the expected rituals of a pilgrim. Notably, a pilgrim is encouraged to stand and engage in supplication on the 11th, 12th, and 13th of Dhul Hijja, immediately after completing the stoning of the second and third Jamarat. As I conversed with my friend Muhammad Bello, it became apparent that for some individuals, prior preparation is necessary before undertaking the Hajj pilgrimage. This preparation encompasses not only a deep understanding of the jurisprudence surrounding Hajj but also a familiarity with the practical aspects and specific locations tied to the pilgrimage.
Having concluded our engagement with the Jamarat, we made our way back to Mina to indulge in some well-deserved rest. To our delight, the pilgrimage agency organizing our journey had a pleasant surprise in store for all the pilgrims. Following the Inshaa prayer, they announced an Eid competition, which promptly gathered everyone in the camp. The competition revolved around thought-provoking questions encompassing theological concepts and current affairs. Participation promised a reward, and I eagerly took part in one of the Q&A sessions. Representatives from each agency were invited to answer the questions, but to my dismay, as I prepared to respond, a fellow member from my own agency impulsively blurted out the answer, violating the rules of fair play. Consequently, I was disqualified, though I did receive a consolation prize—an exquisite power bank that proved to be a useful addition to my belongings. It was an evening that left an indelible mark in our memories, filled with joyous camaraderie and friendly competition.
As the morning of the 11th of Dhul Hijja arrived, we resolved to embark on the Tawaf Al’ifadah and Sa’yi, pivotal rites for those performing the Tamattu’u approach. In a previous Facebook post, someone had specifically requested information on these rituals. Hence, we set off early, leaving Minna at 6 am, and secured a taxi for our journey. However, due to the heavy traffic congestion, what should have been a 20-minute ride extended to nearly an hour. Finally, by 7 am, we found ourselves within the premises of the Kaaba, ready to commence the Tawaf. It is customary for the pilgrim to position the Kaaba on their left side, initiating the circumambulation from Hajr Al Aswad, the Black Stone. For those who are distant from it, a guiding green light points the way. The initial rounds proceeded smoothly. However, as the fourth round approached, the masjid became brimming with pilgrims from every corner of the globe. The sight was a testament to the diversity of the Muslim ummah, as individuals adorned in traditional garments representing their respective nations joined together in this profound act of worship. Despite the apparent differences, the rites we performed were the same, erasing any distinction between the powerful and the downtrodden. It was a poignant reminder of the unifying power of Hajj, prompting us to reflect deeply.
After completing the Tawaf around 8:26 am, we proceeded towards Sa’yi. The organizers directed us to the upper floor, ensuring a smooth and orderly progression. Just outside the exit, we offered the customary two rakaat prayer, seeking to avoid congestion, as instructed by the officials. Some members of our family opted to utilize the designated electronic vehicles for Sa’yi. Surprisingly, it took us an additional 1 hour and 26 minutes to complete the Sa’yi ritual. The crowd swelled with each passing round, emphasizing the immense number of pilgrims partaking in this profound act of devotion.
The Sa’yi begins at Mount Safa, retracing the steps of Hajar, the mother of Ismail, as she sought water for her son in the arid desert. From Safa, she would return to Marwa, repeating this back-and-forth journey seven times until she discovered the life-giving Zamzam water. Each traversal from Safa to Marwa and Marwa to Safa constituted a single unit, thus completing the required seven units of Sa’yi.
With Sa’yi concluded, it was time for a brief respite and nourishment. Our initial plan was to return to Minna, take some rest, and then proceed to the Jamarat for the symbolic stoning of the devil in the late afternoon. However, the traffic management officials had implemented measures to regulate vehicular movement, resulting in taxis being prohibited from passing through the Aziziyya bridge. This unforeseen circumstance compelled us to traverse the streets of Makkah on foot.
Thankfully, the umbrellas provided by our agency proved extremely useful. Along the roadside, volunteers distributed water and even refreshing beverages, providing much-needed relief. Unexpectedly, we encountered the challenge of finding the correct route to the Jamrat, as the directions for those traveling by train from Mina differed from those arriving from Aziziyya.
Navigating through the throng of people, we relied on the guidance of officials, ultimately embarking on a two-hour journey, reminiscent of a marathon. It was during this arduous trek that we realized why Hajj is deemed obligatory for those who possess the financial means and sound physical and mental health. When we finally reached our tent, a fellow pilgrim from Eritrea greeted us with a knowing smile, understanding the arduous nature of our journey. “No need to say anything,” he expressed. “Just rest and recover.” The time was past 5pm, almost 12 hours since we had set out on our Hajj endeavors. We quickly replenished ourselves with a much-needed lunch. As I made my way back to our room, a poster caught my eye in the tent—a quiz on the jurisprudence of Hajj. Instantly, I knew I couldn’t miss this opportunity to further deepen my understanding.
To be continued, by the grace of God (inshaa Allah).
On the 12th of Dhul Hijja,
30th June 2023,
at 4:51 pm.
